From Sujiko to Ikura: A New Fall Ritual

The summer is over, and now it’s the season when Japanese moms head to the farmers market to pick up sujiko—salmon roe still in its sac—from local fishermen to make ikura.

Ikura, those glistening orange pearls you see on sushi, is one of Japan’s beloved delicacies. But I heard that salmon roe used to be discarded at grocery stores here in Portland—not long ago, you could even pick it up for free because no one wanted it! Times have changed, and while it’s not exactly cheap now, we’re lucky to find local salmon roe from the Columbia River and make our own ikura right at home.

(Sujiko refers to roe that’s still in the thin membrane sacs, while ikura is the loose, individual roe that’s been gently separated and marinated in soy sauce.)

Every year, I hear Japanese moms chatting about it—sharing where to get the freshest sujiko and the best way to make ikura—but I had never tried it myself. It’s fish roe, after all! I love fish, but handling roe felt like something you buy, not make at home. Then last year, a friend shared her homemade ikura with me, and it was a revelation. The flavor, the texture… it was on another level. After ten years in Oregon, I decided it was time to join the club.

After a couple of attempts, I finally scored some fresh sujiko at a farmers market. (Yes, you often have to reserve ahead or show up early—otherwise they sell out!)

My friend shared a funny, detailed ikura-making video on YouTube, and I followed along. It wasn’t nearly as messy or difficult as I imagined—except for the part where I had to chase my cat to retrieve the sujiko skin he stole from the compost bin.

The result? Mmmh, HEAVEN.

I’m enjoying the one jar I kept in the fridge, and froze four more so I can savor them throughout fall and winter. I love this season. What’s next? Mushrooms, pumpkins, and chestnuts?

The products used in the video: