The Comfort of Anko

October 17, 2025

Anko, anko, anko… it’s Japanese soul food, just like onigiri. For anyone with a sweet tooth, it’s essential—almost like chocolate.

Back when I was a college student in Wisconsin, I missed anko so badly. One day, I ran to an oriental food store and bought what looked like azuki beans. The package was in Chinese, so I wasn’t totally sure, but I figured, close enough! I had never cooked beans in my life, but I thought, “Anko is just beans and sugar—how hard could it be?” I boiled some water, threw in the beans, added sugar, and waited in my dark dorm kitchen in the basement. Well… it turned out bitter and totally inedible. I had no idea that azuki beans have a natural bitterness, and there’s a little trick you need to know to make delicious anko.

Now that the weather has cooled down, it’s the perfect time to make anko again. There’s something so soothing about slowly simmering azuki beans. The gentle bubbling sound, the earthy aroma filling the kitchen—it’s my kind of therapy. And when you finally taste your homemade anko, made just the way you like it, it’s truly special. I find myself making it again and again, simply because I can’t resist that comforting flavor.

Anko making is simple—just three ingredients: azuki beans, sugar, and a pinch of salt (just like I thought back then!). But there are a few important tips. Follow them, and you’ll have a pot of rich, flavorful anko ready in just a few hours.

Tip 1: Remove the bitterness first.
Before the actual cooking, start by boiling the beans in water once, then discard that first batch of water. This process, called shibukiri, removes the bitterness and unwanted flavors from the beans. Don’t skip this step—it makes all the difference.

Tip 2: Keep an eye on the pot.
Though making anko is mostly about simmering, you need to check it from time to time. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface and make sure the beans stay just barely covered with water. A little attention goes a long way in avoiding uneven cooking or unwanted flavors.

Tip 3: Add sugar only after the beans are soft.
If you add sugar too early, the beans will never soften no matter how long you cook them. Make sure the beans are tender all the way through before stirring in sugar. This timing is key to getting that perfect texture.

Homemade Anko (Sweet Red Bean Paste)

Ingredients:

1 ¼ cup (250 g) azuki beans
1 to 1 ¼ cup (200–250 g) sugar — white, granulated, or cane sugar all work.
(I like using cane sugar for its deeper flavor—it creates more foam, so skim often.)
½ teaspoon salt

Instructions

Rinse the beans.
Place the azuki beans in a strainer and rinse them quickly twice under running water.
First boil – remove bitterness (shibukiri).
Add the beans and 3 times as much water to a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Once it starts boiling, cook for 10–15 minutes, then discard the water.
This step removes the bitterness and gives your anko a clean flavor. Make sure there’s plenty of water so the beans move freely. The water should turn a deep wine color before you drain it—that’s your sign it worked.
Second boil – cook until soft.
Wash the pot well before using it again. Add the beans back in with about 3 times as much fresh water and bring to a boil. Once it boils, reduce to medium-low heat and simmer for about 30 minutes. Skim off any foam as it appears, and make sure the beans stay just covered with water. Add a bit of room-temperature water when needed to keep them submerged.
Check doneness.
After about 30 minutes, the liquid will start to thicken slightly. Check if the beans are soft—this can vary depending on the freshness of the beans. Older beans may take an hour or more. They’re ready when you can easily squish one between your thumb and pinky.
Don’t add sugar until the beans are fully soft—once sugar goes in, they’ll stop softening.
Add sugar in two parts.
When the beans are tender, stir in half the sugar. After 1–2 minutes, add the rest and mix gently. Adding sugar in stages helps it absorb better and brings out the flavor evenly. You’ll notice more liquid appearing—that’s normal.
Simmer and thicken.
Keep the mixture at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally with a spatula. Let it cook for about 30 minutes until the liquid reduces and it thickens to your liking.
Finish with salt.
When most of the liquid has evaporated and the paste is slightly looser than your preferred texture (it will firm up as it cools), remove from heat. Stir in the salt to balance the sweetness.

Transfer the anko to a storage container, cover the surface directly with parchment paper, and let it cool. This prevents it from drying out—anko loses moisture surprisingly fast when uncovered!

The result is pure bliss: fragrant, sweet red bean paste that captures the essence of azuki beans. Spread it on toast with butter, serve it with vanilla ice cream, spoon it over pancakes, or pair it with mascarpone for something unexpected. You can even freeze it for later—or go all in and make ohagi if you’re feeling ambitious.

How to Store Homemade Anko

Refrigerate:
Once the anko has cooled completely, transfer it to a clean, airtight container.
Place a piece of parchment paper directly on the surface to prevent it from drying out, then close the lid tightly.
Store in the refrigerator and enjoy within 3–4 days.
Freeze:
For longer storage, divide the anko into smaller portions, wrap each in plastic wrap, and place them together in a freezer-safe bag.
Press out as much air as possible before sealing.
It will keep well in the freezer for about one month.

A Sweet, Slow Moment

Making anko always reminds me to slow down and enjoy simple things. It’s not just about the sweetness—it’s the quiet rhythm of stirring, the steam rising from the pot, and the familiar scent filling the kitchen. Whether you spread it on warm toast or wrap it in mochi, there’s something deeply comforting about anko made by hand.